Species-calibrated calcium for leopard geckos. D3 and non-D3 formulas with color-coded caps, printed dusting schedule, and an airtight jar that won't leak or clump. No more guessing. No more generic powders.
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Pick the right one for your setup
For geckos without UVB lighting. D3 is essential for calcium absorption — if your gecko doesn't have a UVB bulb, they need it in their calcium. Most new owners start here.
For geckos with proper UVB lighting. UVB light lets geckos synthesize their own D3, so they only need pure calcium. Also used for the calcium dish in the enclosure.
Read our D3 vs Non-D3 guide. Short version: if you have UVB, get the non-D3 for the dish and D3 for dusting once a week. No UVB? Just get the D3.
Three steps. No guesswork.
Place crickets or mealworms in a bag with a pinch of powder. Shake gently. Feed immediately. Check the dusting schedule on the label for your gecko's age.
Place a small dish of pure calcium (non-D3) in your gecko's enclosure. They'll lick it when they need it. This is called "self-regulation" and it works.
Our sealed jar does the work — just keep it in a cool, dry place. No refrigeration needed. Each jar stays fresh for 12+ months after opening.
One 3 oz jar typically lasts 4 to 6 months for one adult leopard gecko. If you have multiple geckos, it'll go faster. The powder stays fresh for 12+ months after opening.
GeckoBone is calibrated for leopard gecko metabolism. It will work for other insectivorous geckos (crested, day, African fat-tailed), but we recommend species-specific products for non-gecko reptiles.
Most experienced keepers use both: non-D3 in the calcium dish, and D3 for dusting once or twice a week. If you're just starting out, start with the D3 formula. Read our complete guide.
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